Recently I was conversing with a new customer, Erica, who wanted my opinion on sock yarns that don't pill. We discussed how it can be disappointing when we try a new sock yarn with a more intricate pattern and after washing and wearing we find that the yarn pills or fuzzes enough to obscure the pattern we worked so hard to create. Or when we try a new sock yarn and find that it doesn't even hold up to a single wear like it should- that's why I test and review yarns here, carrying only premium products, so I don't carry yarn that doesn't wear well for your projects. There are a LOT of new yarns out there, but just because they are called "sock yarn" doesn't mean they hold up to wear. There are many of factors involved in spinning, plying, dyeing, tagging, storing and shipping sock yarn. And let's not leave out how the yarn is knit and how tight or loose the finished fabric is. And if there's problem in any of those steps, it could render a finished pair of socks practically useless. Specializing in one type of yarn and being VERY hands-on helps ensure that what you get from me knits up like you expect.
But back to what I started this post about. Erika and I were discussing two yarns that I regard very highly, particularly Alchemy's Juniper (in the Elemental colors and variegated colorways) and Schaefer Anne, because while they are on the thinner side of fingering weight and might, upon cursory inspection, seem to be more delicate in nature, the socks I knit with those have turned into my workhorse socks- not pilling, having fabulous stitch definition, and performing so much more wonderfully that I ever expected. (I will admit that the Schaefer Anne socks did fuzz up a bit after machine drying them- which I WILL NOT do again.) These two are also among the more pricey options in the store. .
Turns out Erica is a writer for Interweave and penned a nice article about pilling back in 1999 in Spin-Off. She shared with me the following pdf of the article, and gave permission to share it with you here. I welcome you to read it and learn more about the process of pilling- how it's caused, how it can be prevented, and what to do when it does occur. Thank you, Erica, for your generosity!
Are there particular yarns that you've found to be non-pilling? I have to admit that my socks rarely pill unless I abuse them in washing/drying. My best advice to new sock knitters is to go down one needles size on the foot of the sock so that the fabric is dense and the stitches are so close together that they can't rub together too much during wear. I wish I'd know that when I started out, as it would have saved me lots of frustration!
I have some of the Alchemy Juniper in my stash for socks, but when I realized that it contains no nylon I've been hesitant to knit socks. This really isn't a problem? I hate making socks that get holes way too soon.
Posted by: Bev | August 16, 2010 at 12:13 PM
I agree with you, Allison. Once I down-sized my needles to a US 0, pilling has ceased to be a big issue. I have had particularly good non-pilling luck with Shibui Sock, Cherry Tree Hill Supersock, and Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock. Will you be getting more of the Supersock?
Posted by: Vickie | August 16, 2010 at 12:28 PM
I'll chime in with Allison and Vickie. A key to avoiding many sock problems is to knit with a small needle. I knit socks for years with a 2 or a 1, but when I went to 0, everything got better. The socks feel better (denser fabric, less shifting and hole-i-ness) and they wear MUCH better.
The other thing to keep in mind is the kind of wool used in sock yarn. Merino (used in many sock yarns) is a relatively short-stapled fiber. The ends are more likely to pop out of the twist structure and form pills. Picking a yarn whose content is marked plain "wool" is probably not merino (or the manufacturer would have said "merino" since it's premium) and therefore may be a harder working sock yarn. Today, you can get sock yarns made from longwool breeds like bluefaced leicester, too. Try one and see if you like it!
Posted by: Janelle | August 16, 2010 at 05:00 PM
Allison - I wore my Feather & Fan socks to work again today and still no signs of wear - only the most microscopic slight fuzzing in 2 or 3 spots on the sole - the patterned part is still like brand new - even after many wearings and washings (I let them dry flat) and no color bleeding either. I usually like to read reviews on yarns from those who have knit with that particular one before purchasing. I usually knit all of my socks on a size 1 needle (easier on my hands)and I like to stay away from sock yarns that are on the thin side of sock wt. (Just my preference) I knit with a not so well known sock yarn once and the colors bled and it pilled like crazy and it was a wool and nylon blen too.
Posted by: Diane | August 16, 2010 at 05:39 PM
Shepherd Sock wears for years and years, even through both washer and dryer. It's my go-to sock yarn, especially for gift socks. I, too, was very pleasantly surprised by the durability of Alchemy Juniper. Those, too, went in the washer and dryer. I like to leave in the dryer just about 5 minutes, then remove and lay flat to finish drying. Seems to prevent fuzzing. I think I will try knitting my feet on size 0. Sounds like a smart idea.
Posted by: Janet Miller | August 17, 2010 at 06:50 PM
I like Opal yarns and Regia. I use them to make my son socks and they wear well. The very first socks I made him out of Regia lasted 3 years. I then had to reknit the toe, but he got another year or two out of them.
I love a bargain, but when I'm making socks for someone that wears a size 18 EEEE shoe, I want something that lasts!
Posted by: Deb in PA | August 17, 2010 at 08:47 PM
I found out that my sister washes the socks I've made her inside out! And they all look great.
Posted by: Elizabeth D | September 07, 2010 at 09:31 AM